Rain
Garden: Beautiful Solution to Run-off
Pollution
What is a
A rain garden is a shallow depression planted with native
Why plant a
Rain gardens
are an inexpensive, simple to implement and environmentally sound solution to
stormwater runoff.
A
·
Reduce standing water
in your yard & opportunities for mosquito breeding
·
Filter runoff
pollution
·
Recharge local
groundwater
·
Create habitat for
birds & butter
·
Enhance sidewalk
appeal
·
Increase beneficial
insects that eliminate pest insects
·
Reduce potential of
home
·
Improve water quality
·
Protect rivers and
streams
·
Reduce garden
maintenance and increase garden enjoyment
·
Conserve water
Why
is stormwater a problem?
The Environmental
Protection Agency has determined that up to 70% of the pollution in our surface
waters is carried there by stormwater runoff.
One study showed that up to 50% of that pollution comes from things we
do in our yards! When it rains, water
runs off our roofs, parking lots, streets, and lawns, instead of soaking into
the soil the way it did before development. This water along with salt from
roads, pet waste, lawn nutrients, spilled gas, oil and other pollutants, ends
up in storm sewers and ditches that discharge to streams, rivers and lakes.
In addition to
carrying pollution, stormwater runoff is usually warm. Groundwater has a fairly cool temperature,
which allows water to hold more oxygen and keeps the habitat stable. Many
sensitive creatures such as trout cannot survive in a stream with
In a natural system, water
enters a stream through a slow, steady release from groundwater. Stormwater runoff occurs all at once. The
large volumes of warm water
If you’d like to
calculate how much rainwater runs off your roof each year,
first figure out your roof's square footage, then multiply that number by
623. Next, divide the product by 1,000,
and multiply the result by the number of annual inches of rainfall in your location
(40 to 50 inches in Connecticut.) So
over 33,000 gallons of rainwater pour off a 1200 square foot roof each year!
How do you build a
1.
Decide where to place your garden
Place the garden at least 10 feet away from your home to
prevent
2.
Determine size and depth of garden
Measure the length and width of your house and multiply
the two numbers. Divide that number by
the percentage of the roof that will feed the garden (if a house has 4
downspouts .25 would equal the amount from 1 of them.) Now multiply that number by .15 for sandy
soil, .25 for silty soil, or .32 for clay soil*. This final number is
the size of the garden in square feet. For example 40’ x 60’ = 2400 sq. feet. 2400 x .25 = 600 sq. feet
of drainage area. 600 x .15 for
sandy soil = 90 square feet.
If the slope of the lawn is less than 4% the depth should
be 3-5 inches. If the slope is between 5
and 7% the depth should be between 6 and 7 inches. If the slope is between 8 and 12% the depth
should be about 8 inches.
* This formula
represents a garden that is less than 30 ft. from a downspout and 6-7 inches
deep.
3.
Start by creating a design
By planning your garden on paper, you will be able to get
3 seasons of bloom and create the best appearance possible. Keep the design simple. Choose a few types of
plants and place them in groupings. You
will need 1 plant every 1- 2 feet. To determine the number of plants you need,
multiply the square footage by .75. If
your garden is 100 square feet, you need approximately 75 plants.
4.
Choose your plants
Native plants are suggested because they are best adapted
for our climate. Choose plants that will
grow well in both wet and dry areas because the rain garden will temporarily
fill with rainwater from time to time. Choose plants that grow well under the
site’s conditions - sun, shade, or mixed.
Combine different plants that will bloom throughout the spring, summer
and fall season.
5.
Lay out the shape of the garden
Lay out the shape and boundary
of the garden with a hose or rope, based on the dimensions you calculated.
6.
Dig a shallow depression
Before you dig verify that there are no underground utilities or septic system components (tank & leach
fields) on the site.
Remove the turf grass and dig your garden approximately 6
inches deep and to the dimensions you calculated. Slope the sides of the edges
and use the remaining soil to build a berm around the garden edges.
7.
Prepare the soil
To amend your soil add a mixture of 50% sand, 20% - 30%
organic matter (compost or fine mulch), and 20% - 30% top soil (what you just
dug out of the garden).
8.
Time to plant
Follow the design and place plants in the approximate
positions. Plants should be placed about 1 foot apart from each other.
9.
Mulch the garden
Use shredded woodchips that won’t
10.
Watering and arranging downspouts
Water every other day for 2 weeks (if it doesn’t rain)
until the garden looks to be growing on its own. Keep an eye on it in hot days just in
case. When placing downspouts make sure
a grass buffer lies about 1-2 feet before the garden to prevent a rush of water
from eroding the soil and washing out the new plants.
Another
option: A rain barrel placed
under a downspout will catch rain water and costs between $35 and $200.
Where can I get further information on
The following links provide detailed
technical information, including; plants, diagrams, and photographs.
http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/water/wm/nps/rg/rgmanual.pdf (
http://www.raingardennetwork.com/ (
http://www.canr.uconn.edu/sustainability/landscape/05-rain_gardens.html (UConn -
http://www.canr.uconn.edu/sustainability/pdf/raingardenbroch.pdf (UConn -
http://www.raingardens.org/Index.php (Rain
Gardens of West Michigan)
http://www.wnrmag.com/supps/2003/feb03/run.htm (Wisconsin
Department of Natural Resources Magazine)
http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/water/wm/nps/rg/ (Wisconsin Department of Natural
Resources)
http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/2004sp_raingardens.html (Brooklyn
Botanic Garden)
http://www.neponset.org/raingarden.htm
(Neponset
River Watershed Association, Massachusetts)